Showing posts with label food and drink. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food and drink. Show all posts

Saturday, 4 June 2011

Food & Drink: 2 - Salmorejo

When taking lunch in Córdoba, Jordi Cotelo, the main character of After Goya, opts for salmorejo as a first course.

Salmorejo is a simple, though fabulous, dish from Córdoba - with its origins in Moorish Spain - perfect for  summer afternoons.

Many people describe it as like gazpacho - cold tomato soup - only thicker. Unfair description I think, as it has a flavour quite its own. It's more like a tomato flavoured hummus, or tomato baba ghanoush.

I've become quite adept at making salmorejo. Try my recipe, I'll think you'll like it. No cooking involved.
If organised it takes about twenty minutes, and then one hour minimum cooling time in the fridge.
Good dish for vegetarians - just omit ham garnish when serving.

What you'll need:
  • A good, sharp knife.
  • A chopping board.
  • A deep bowl.
  • A couple of small bowls. 
  • A small pan for boiling eggs.
  • A spoon. 
  • A spatula.
  • A conical sieve.  
  • A blender.
  • A fridge

    Ingredients (for 4):
    • 500g of good quality fresh plum tomatoes (or pear tomatoes as they're known in Spain) NOT tinned.
    • A stale French or Spanish stick of bread (preferably NOT a baguette, and certainly NOT stale sliced white).
    • 2 cloves of garlic.
    • A red (or green - but NOT yellow) capiscum (or bell) pepper.
    • 2 free-range eggs.
    • A few slices of, or packet of ready-diced, serrano ham.
    • 2 dessert spoons of good quality vinegar (preferably apple, or sherry, but NOT balsamico).
    • 2 dessert spoons of good quality olive oil (preferably extra virgin, and preferably from Córdoba province - the Carbonell brand is often the most easy to find in UK and US stores).
    • Boiling water to peel tomatoes.

    Method:
    Put the kettle on for boiling water. Hard boil the eggs.

    I prefer to peel the tomatoes - others don't bother. It's not really very difficult (especially if they are good quality tomatoes). Take the knife and put a small cross at the crown of each tomato and place in the bowl. Pour on boiling water, making sure to cover the tomatoes, and let rest while you break up the bread and put through the blender to make fine breadcrumbs. Put the breadcrumbs in a bowl and set aside. Chop the pepper, remove the seeds and white pithy bits, and chop the garlic.

    After eggs have boiled place in cold water to cool. Return to tomatoes and drain hot water and pour on cold water and drain again. Then take each tomato and nip skin at the crown between thumb and forefinger and gently remove skin. Easy isn't it? Discard skin. Chop each tomato in half and place in blender, add chopped garlic and pepper into the blender. Give the mixture a good blast.

    Now, I prefer to strain the tomato seeds - others don't. To strain, pour the tomato pulp from the blender through the conical sieve into the bowl the tomatoes were in. Run the spoon around the sieve to extract as much good juice as you can. Discard seeds.

    Put the breadcrumbs into the blender and pour on the tomato, pepper and garlic juice, add the oil and vinegar (though others insist, I don't think you'll need salt - add if you prefer.). Pulse the blender a few times to mix the breadcrumbs and juice then give it a good blast.

    Pour mixture, which should be of porridge-like consistency, back into the bowl. If too runny add more breadcrumbs. If too clumpy add more fruit. Put bowl in the fridge for a minimum of one hour.

    Peel the hard boiled eggs. Gently separate the whites and yolks and finely chop the white. If using slices of ham, instead of ready-diced, dice the ham.

    To serve, put a few ladles of the mixture into serving bowls and sprinkle a good measure of egg white, and a heaped teaspoon of diced ham onto the mixture.

    Try a spoonful. Yum. Think of Andalucia. Think of Cotelo negotiating a rapprochement with his assistant. Acknowledge hearty thanks from happy family and friends.

    Wednesday, 30 March 2011

    Food & Drink: 1 - Soberano

    A good many readers enjoy the mentions of food and drink in After Goya.

    They say they add not only colour, but also a certain depth to the experience of reading an adventure set in modern-day Spain.


    Good, that's as it should be.


    The main character, Jordi Cotelo, drinks coñac, and, more specifically, Soberano. A few readers have asked, 'Why Soberano and not, say, Veterano, or Magno, or Terry, or Mascaró?'  All very popular brands of brandy in Spain.

    Well, setting aside popular associations of class (for example, Mascaró is considered a luxury brand when really it's not) there's a double-edged play on words going on, and an allusion to a missing fragment of the jigsaw that is modern-day Spain.

    In castellano Soberano means the equivalent of sovereign. In  Spanglish Soberano echoes sober (sobrio) plus año - year; implying age.
    This sober-older association with Cotelo's choice of drink infers he is older, more sober - he's no eager young naif.

    And the allusion to a missing part of the jigsaw?

    Well, much of After Goya is taken up with characters asking and placing who was where when?
    Passing reference is made to the 'Monarchists' - but it's not stated which monarchists.
    Passing reference is made to the 23rd of February, 1981 (23-F in Spanish history), when King Juan Carlos stayed up through the night, hustling between factions and broadcasting calls for calm, unity and, ultimately, the surrender of patsy Coronel Tejero's gang of Boschistas.

    The King (and, interestingly, the medium of radio), and the institution of constitutional monarchy, came out winners of the debacle. The monarch's subsequent approval ratings prompted the old Stalinist butcher, Santiago Carillo (then posing as a Euro-communist), to say, "God save the king. Today, we are all monarchists."

    Juan Carlos had proved to be a steadying, sober influence.

    He may not be mentioned by name in After Goya - but Juan Carlos is there in spirit.

    Monday, 10 August 2009

    LINGO BINGO

    The surest way to lose a reader is to make them feel stupid.

    I received another reader's report over the weekend. It wasn't glowing. 'Far too much Spanish,' was one comment. They're probably right - I found 300 instances in the text where I've used Spanish - individual words like sí and a couple of complete phrases such as: 'De primero: salmorejo, y de segundo: pollo. Postre no, tomaré una manzana.' Translation: 'For my first course I'll have cold tomato soup, Córdoba style, and for my second course I'll have chicken. No dessert, I'll have an apple.'

    Tricky. A good many readers enjoyed the references to Spanish food and drink, reporting it added another layer to the novel's authenticity.

    Using a Spanish word like carajillo - a coffee with a splash of brandy or rum, whisky, vodka or whatever - is more economical than spelling out a coffee with a splash of brandy.

    In general English is a much more specific language than Spanish. However, when it comes to food and drink Spanish is much more specific, often using one word where English would use three or more. Viz. bacalao - salted cod; melindros - sponge fingers; calimacho - Coke and cheap red wine; cortado - espresso coffee cut with either hot or cold milk; soave - coffee and Coca-Cola with ice; sangria - a summer punch made from red wine, fruit, ice, etc etc.

    'I know what sangria is,' I hear some readers say. 'I don't need you to spell it out for me.'

    But, what about a clerico? A sangria type drink made with white wine or cava.

    'I know what a paella is.' Are you sure? Go visit the Paella Professor.

    So, now I'm sat here with a few sheets of paper filled with strings of page and line numbers, like some arcane version of bingo, as I review, amend or not, and tick off each instance of Spanish language.

    How much knowledge of other languages, and other customs, should a writer presume a reader has?

    Should writers play safe and trot out the usual suspects: sangria, paella, vino, cerveza etc and risk reinforcing stereotypes? Or, should writers tell it like it is, using context as far as possible to reveal meaning, and push readers just a little beyond their comfort zone?

    Friday, 17 July 2009

    The Paella Professor














    While out and about on the net scouting for images to put in the After Goya website I came across the Paella Professor, a lovingly created blog on all things Spanish paella. If you like paella - and who doesn't? - go there and check it out. You'll find posts about Gwyneth Paltrow's encounter with a paella, some great recipes and a list of interesting books.

    I'm on with creating a page for the After Goya website about food and drink as it appears in the novel - I'll more than likely embed a link to the Paella Professor.